We are a commune of inquiring, skeptical, politically centrist, capitalist, anglophile, traditionalist New England Yankee humans, humanoids, and animals with many interests beyond and above politics. Each of us has had a high-school education (or GED), but all had ADD so didn't pay attention very well, especially the dogs. Each one of us does "try my best to be just like I am," and none of us enjoys working for others, including for Maggie, from whom we receive neither a nickel nor a dime. Freedom from nags, cranks, government, do-gooders, control-freaks and idiots is all that we ask for.
This was our first urban hike with all-day cool (low 50s all day) rain. Very similar to northern Scotland. Undaunted, our team marched on despite some discomfort and got to see all sorts of cool things along with the always-interesting (or more interesting) street scenes.
Along with us we had famous website owners, family members, of course Dear Leader Bulldog and his adorable Mrs., and representatives from Texas, Illinois, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and NYC. Ages 22 to 70+. Such an enjoyable, interesting, amusing, adventurous, and high IQ group. Friends.
We covered 11.5 miles with all of our detours while trending north, with lots of uphill in Washington Heights.
The Maggie's Urban Hike tradition is to stop for pizza and beer around 1 pm. Victorio's on 145th St. had pretty good greasy pizza. Our team occupied every seat in that hole in the wall joint, deeply immersed in this amazing city.
Below, the elegant Victorio's Pizza Plus, in north Harlem near City College on 145th St. Very efficient pizza joint but no damn bathroom and no beer!
I'd like to thank everyone who braved the rain and chill yesterday to join Maggie's Annual Urban Hike. As Mrs. Bulldog and I approached the Natural History Museum, we were curious who would actually show up. We were very surprised to see a hardy group which totaled 13.
The choice of Northern Manhattan was a good one. I'm not sure we could have made the Cloisters even on a nice day, but by the end of the 9.2 miles (or so) that we did complete, we'd seen a good chunk of the Upper West Side, Harlem, and Washington Heights.
We passed 2 (of 5 planned) Carnegie Libraries. Took a gander at, and some pictures of, Pomander Walk and Sylvan Terrace. We saw Alexander Hamilton's house (which the city has moved twice), Aaron Burr's house, and the lot where the Collyer Brothers made hoarding a headline (as their house is gone). We passed the Polo Grounds and finished up at Highbridge. The group determined the Little Red Lighthouse should be our final stop - but we nixed it as walking there is far more complicated than we imagined. We'll save it for another trip.
I didn't take any pictures, unfortunately, so hopefully others who did can share them. The rain was definitely not a deterrent. While we considered cancelling (discussing whether "rain or shine" means "light mist or shine"), I think we made the right decision as it was one of the best walks we'd had.
Great fun, good people, nice conversation, wonderful views of New York.
We're running out of new things to see in NYC. Next year may be an interesting one to plan.
I have been a tourist in Ireland twice, long ago. Ten days and you can get the gist of the interesting and charming sights on the whole island. In this way, I think Ireland is like Southern France and Scotland. I mean that these are fine places just to be in, and not to be a tourist. Delightful getaways without frantic running and driving around.
Ireland has a number of great house inns/hotels, some near golf and some not. A favorite is Ballyfin which is not near any famous golf. It's about horseback, cycling, hiking, reading, dining, and immersing onseself in the green Irish countryside.
Stuff does not appear by magic, even if Amazon makes it feel that way.
Many freighters do take a small number of passengers. This guy took one from Germany of Charleston (a great town to visit - one of the best). People tell me everybody ought to try one freighter trip. Get a lot of books read, but BYOB. And a date, I think.
Starting a mile further north at a Dunkin' (Donuts) near the Natural History Museum (yes, Dunkin' Donuts is our traditional launchpad). I've done what I can to keep this at 11 miles. I'd like to make it shorter - but The Cloisters is the goal. So we can make choices along the way to see how people feel and what can be cut. The Little Red Lighthouse was something I considered cutting - but as Mrs. Bulldog says the view of the GWB is pretty spectacular. I could cut out the Collyer Brothers' Park, but let's be honest, if they can clutter up their house, we can clutter up our walk.
So we'll go for it. I'm sure I'm missing a few things. However, High Bridge, Morris-Jumel Mansion, Collyer Brothers, several Carnegie Libraries, Hamilton Grange, the Fascist Building at Columbia, the Battle of Harlem Heights....it's all there. UPPER MANHATTAN in all its glory to be invaded by Maggies' Farmers. I'll find subway stops for those who need to leave early, have swollen feet, etc. If you're hardy enough...maybe we shall return to Lower Manhattan and have a drink. Mrs. Bulldog and I have started stopping in at The Ear Inn - a magical place - where we have seen a ghost (or at least I believe I have) throw a glass. I'm sure there's a logical reason for it having broken by flying off the rack...but I WANT to believe. Alternatively, the Campbell Apartment is a good place to relax.
Looking forward to seeing everyone. I have been trying to find a weekend to do a test walk to pin down eateries, but weekends fill up quick these days. I may drive it just to see how it goes...
May 5th is the date for the Urban Hike. Upper Manhattan is the route. We have some interesting stops. Starting at Lincoln Center, then working our way up, we will take a gander at 5 of the remaining Carnegie Libraries in Manhattan. There is the Collyer Brothers Park, where the infamous pair lived (the house torn down). High Bridge, Morris-Jumel Mansion, Sylvan Terrace, the Little Red Lighthouse.
Right now the trip is 11 miles. My plan is to hike it a week or two prior, plot out some resting locations and eateries, and then make adjustments. 11 miles is long. Shorter than last year's, but still very long. 9am start time - but beware. May 5th is the Five Boro Bike Tour. We shouldn't have any issues with this. The tour is more or less out of the Central Park area by about 11am, and it's all on the east side. By the time we reach the Collyer Brothers Park, most of the bikes will be past. However, beware of getting to the city early! The Five Boro Tour usually can add 30-45 minutes of entry time into Manhattan if you're coming from the north or east of the city. Plan ahead and keep your radio tuned to traffic reports as you try to get to Lincoln Center.
Open to suggestions, changes, commentary - feel free to share any thoughts you may have. If you plan on attending and would like to see something in particular, let me know and I'll add it. The lucky ones who survive can all hop on the subway and we'll head down to Grand Central for a post-hike cocktail at Campbell Apartment.
Arguably the best hike in the USA are the trails down - and back up - the Grand Canyon. It's the only way to see the Grand Canyon up close and personal. The hike up takes twice as long as the hike down, roughly. It's not too challenging but it is glorious.
We did it 12 years ago and stayed 2 nites at the rustic Phantom Ranch on the riverbank. That's the way to do it. That first cold beer at the bottom is the best beer in the world even if it's Bud Lite in a can. The food there is great, thanks to the mules who carry everything down and up all day. Phantom Ranch has some cabins, 4 dorms, and a wonderful mess hall.
It's not a hike for young kids, and it's a hike for spring or fall - not summer. Too hot. One handy service they have is that they will take a duffel bag down for you on mules, and back up when you leave. Thus all you need to hike with is a daypack with water and snacks.
When you're out there, why not hop over to Sedona for some easy hiking in red rock country? Lots of pleasant hikes, few of the basic ones long or arduous:
- Take the ride on the Roosevelt Island tram. Once the site of a state mental hospital and other hospitals, Roosevelt Island in the East River is now a city unto itself, but with almost no cars. You can see the creepy ruins of the old asylums and the Smallpox Hospital (photo above), and you can visit the FDR Museum if you want to and the Four Freedoms Park. (Not an FDR fan, myself, but many are.)
- The New York Transit Museum(h/t reader). New York first had urban mass transit in 1868 (Els) and underground since 1904.
Friends just got back from Palm Beach. I've only been there once, for a lunch of stone crabs (which are overrated).
It's a narrow barrier reef, just a few feet above sea level but nobody seems worried about that at all. There is a beautiful, tony estate area of the island with magnificent tropical and subtropical gardens like Casa Phippsberger:
From what I gather, few people go to the beach there. There are heated pools. In winter, the sea is too cool for most people to swim (about 55 degrees F).
Self-guided is much cheaper than guided trips. It depends, though, on your travel confidence. GPS is always handy. You get to see countryside, villages, and cities at your own hiking pace.
What they generally do is to transport your luggage from destination to destination, give you a map, and make your reservations. Most of their point-to-point daily walks are 8-10 miles, but some travel companies expect you to walk or hike 15 miles/day. That's a lot for many people especially in hilly terrain.
Another point is that their mapped walks are rated in the Euroland method of mild/moderate/challenging. Their "moderate" can entail serious hill-hiking so your fitness is a factor. If they say "challenging," they really mean it.
So, a more vigorous with less luxury, and a chance to see what ordinary tourists do not.
Sometimes they provide transfers to another starting point. They usually plan for two days in cities of interest, like Pisa, for people who love old churches, museums, and cafes.
It's fun to check out what these companies have to offer:
Spent a few hours with one of my daughters in Manhattan on Sunday. She wanted to show me her new apartment and her new work spaces. Nice. She is in a great mood because she has a work team that meets her standards. She is an entrepreneur, an energizer bunny, and the complexity of her 24/7 work life astonishes me. How she fits in her lively social life, I don;t know. But she does. In NY, social life tends to be late. After my bedtime.
Being a Dad, I peeked in her fridge. A dozen eggs, some butter, two jars of artisanal mustard, and a bottle of DayQuil and NyQuil. Typical youth. She's off to Vietnam and China this week on biz. Hanoi!
To amuse me, and because we both love walking around NY, she took me on a mini-tour of some of her favorite food courts in mid-town, and chattered about some cool things she has recently found to do. She has always speed-talked, but after a few years in NYC she talks faster and walks faster. Makes me feel like a country bumpkin.
Have any readers done this? Sure seems like a cool idea for native or foreign visitors, to see the real USA. Long list of stops along the way. Truckee, etc.
This is a Maggie's group post. Assorted suggestions.
Doc Mercury used to post Christmas gadgets for us, but he's been AWOL for quite a while. However, nobody needs gadgets. Everybody needs less stuff and less clutter but if young, you can give the wife some gold or diamonds if she doesn't have enough yet. After all, she has had to put up with your many annoyances, shortcomings, sins, and worse.
If you have of-age daughters or even daughter-in-laws, Christmas is a good time to begin to unload unneeded family jewelry and heirlooms. Nobody is getting any younger.
Olde-tyme Yankees that we are, we believe in 1-2 presents per person after age 12. A book and a special item. Best Christmas presents I ever received? A 20 ga. single shot shotgun at age 12, and Aida at the Baths of Caracalla in adulthood.
- Got an exerciser in the family? Get them a medium-weight jump rope. (need to know their height). For the experienced, a speed rope or a 1 lb rope. The 1 lb. rope will kick anybody's butt after a minute or two.
- Anybody's husband or dad would love a wheel of Stilton. Pair it with a vintage port (and maybe a fancy cigar or two), and happy male. Williams-Sonoma no longer sells Stilton scoops, but you can google that item. Unfortunately, mostly via the UK.
- Give a wife or daughter a day at a day spa - hair do-over, facial, nails, massage - women love that stuff.
- Tickets: People love tickets. Ballet, theater, sports, opera, whatever. My brother always gave our parents 12 movie tix (their local theater had a movie/month package) to make sure they got out to a date night at the movies every month.
- We believe trips are great presents, whether a long weekend with theater, dinners, etc in NYC or a week in Spain. Guys or gals, give the spouse the trip that you want, and a voucher for unlimited vigorous sex as compensation for travel hassle.
I've been back from my Icelandic sojourn for a few days. Needed a few to decompress. We landed at 4:45 on Thursday, but sat on the plane on the tarmac for four and a half more hours due to the storm. Then, after we were disembarked, the public transport at the airport was such a mess we didn't get to our car until midnight and didn't walk in our front door until 1am. Thankfully, I was able to work from home Friday, and the weekend was a mess just trying to pull all the pieces back together (get the dog, go to a birthday, etc.). The old saying that you need a vacation from the vacation doesn't usually apply to me, but definitely did this time.
I think the best place to start, though, would be with the Snaefellsness Peninsula. Our first day was spent up in this northeastern section, as I mentioned a week ago. This is a section of Iceland which is overlooked by guide books. The two we utilized had no more than two pages about it. I think it deserves more coverage. It's true you only need a day to see it, you can drive around it in about 4 hours if you don't stop too much. But you may want to stop, and in fact I say you should especially if you love volcanoes (dormant/extinct), lava fields, waterfalls, hiking and general wilderness. My pictures will never do any of the Icelandic regions justice, but I'll share them so you can all get a feel for the place.
The one thing I found intriguing was, at 6am as we drove north from the airport to our first destination, how incredibly dark it was. Without many inhabited districts, most of the roads are extremely dark, and the cloud cover (which prevented us from seeing the Aurora) was thick. As you drive north, with the Greenland Sea on your left, even with the darkness it doesn't take long to realize there are mountains all along on the right. Most probably aren't more than 1,500 feet high, but all are snowcapped due to how far north we are, which makes them seem positively gigantic. I was told most can be hiked in a few hours.
Two full days in, and a third about to start. It's 8am and no sun yet (not until 9:40, and only until about 4:30). Some quick comments.
Very expensive, as we expected. Not even by a little bit. Dinner at a good restaurant in Grundarfjord was $200 for four people. The starter of seafood soup was phenomenal, and probably all we needed. That alone would have run us $100. Second night was fish and chips and beer for all. $150 all in. Bakeries are less expensive, but also less filling. We brought energy bars, to fill ourselves in the event of timing issues.
Heading to the Golden Circle today. We did Snaefellnes Peninsula, a raw beauty that is overlooked by most tourist books. It's a full day, but you stop to hike, too. 2 hours hiking to Eldborg Crater, 30 minutes at Saxholar Crater, the Black Church, the rocky beach at Hellnar, waterfalls everywhere (literally everywhere). Kirkufjell Mountain is particularly interesting (especially for people who follow Game of Thrones, which I don't but my boys do).
Yesterday did Stykkisholmur, climbed Helgafell and made our wishes (make sure you don't speak, don't look back, and face East). We stopped at 2 fjords, then drove down to Reykjavik and walked most of the city at night. My son wanted to see the Phallogical Museum. It's a real thing, and I guess it's worth about 20 minutes. Personally, I wanted to visit the Punk Rock Museum and my family indulged me. It resides in a transformed public restroom, which seems fitting. It was opened by the Sex Pistols' Johnny Rotten.
The city is active and beautiful at night. Lots of people out and about. The Opera House is gorgeous and fun.
No Aurora yet, and the weather reports aren't being kind. My main reason for coming here may not be fulfilled (I guess that's good...reason to return since we're only doing the western side).
Along with whatever meds you usually take (I do BP pills, a statin, and baby aspirin for good luck), I always carry a bottle of amoxicillin, a Z-pak, and about ten 10 mg Ambiens (Zolipidem). I break Ambiens in half as needed.
Flying west to east, I need them to help me recalibrate my sleep. 5 mg works like a dream. I get on local time overnight.
Any doc who knows you will give them to you for travel. Lots of people use them to sleep on planes but neither wine nor Ambien help me do that. Nothing works on planes for me. Torture.
Flying east to west is no problem for me. Going home feels good!
(Caveat: Some people, very few, have strange reactions to Ambien. Just to make sure, try one before your trip if you have not used them before.)
Looking forward to getting away from the madness of the last few months. Huffpo is now assuring me that the Dem's minor victory was a massive rebuke of Trump. I still don't see how outspending the Republicans by about 15% and only gaining a slim House margin while losing seats in the Senate is a massive rebuke. Democrats seem to live in a dream world. I know they felt a lot of pain on Wednesday and now they are just trying to rearrange chairs on the deck of the Titanic. Bernie Sanders and Alexandra Occasional Cortex are the new face of their party, and it's sure to cause them problems nationwide. I don't expect much to change for the Democrats.
In NYC, the self-righteous and self-assured were absolutely certain the 'blue wave' was coming. The only blue wave I'm looking for is in a thermal pool in the next few days. I'll simply take in some fjords, the Aurora Borealis, see Glacier Bay, lava fields, etc.
It was supposed to be a relaxing trip with me and the Mrs. Once we'd booked (cheap - $320 per seat R/T all in) flights and our AirBnb, we added our sons. Sticker shock upon arrival with food and drink, I've heard. The boys follow "Game of Thrones", filmed in Iceland, so that will be an enjoyable portion of the trip for them.
Maybe I'll even learn to pronounce some of their words.
About a year ago our niece had a child. Shortly afterward, my in-laws felt it was time to go meet their great-grandchild. It became a family event. 5 of us flew from various locations to Arizona. We rented a van and took the 8 week old on her first grand family adventure, spending a weekend traveling through Sedona, up to Williams, and riding the Grand Canyon Railroad up to see the big hole in the ground.
A friend of mine recently posted a picture on Facebook of an old church in Europe, commenting "I wish we had old things like this here in the U.S." My tongue-in-cheek reply was "We do! The Grand Canyon is much, much older." In many ways, the Grand Canyon is much more beautiful than a church or any architecture man could devise.
I had never been to the Grand Canyon before. I can't say anything which hasn't already been said about its grandeur. I'll toss in a few pictures of Sedona and the Grand Canyon, but the reality is pictures simply can't capture the immensity and beauty.
We were on the South Rim, about mid-point of the canyon. It's 18 miles across at this location, and the North Rim is higher than the South Rim, so you look 'up' at the far side. Nowadays, there is no private property in the area, except for whatever was grandfathered in when the park was created. At this location, the El Tovar Hotel is right on the rim. We didn't stay, but it is a beautiful hotel if you enjoy the look of rustic West (I do).
The Grand Canyon Railroad is a fun way to get to there, especially if you're a family with kids. You don't get much time at the canyon itself, about 3 1/2 hours. However, you don't have to drive, you get to take in the scenery, the kids interact with cowboys and there is a train robbery on the ride home. It leaves at 9:15 am from Williams, Arizona (the last town bypassed by Interstate 40, and a town chock full of Route 66 memorabilia) and arrives at the canyon around 11:30. A tour guide gives a running commentary as cowboys stroll up and down the train strumming guitars and singing tunes for tips. There are a variety of vistas which are passed. High plains, forest, ranch, and mountains are all part of the two and a half hour trip. We saw elk, antelope, and jackrabbit galore.
I really enjoyed this trip, and there's so much to see I am inspired to return. I doubt I'd do the railroad again, and I'd like to see the canyon from several different places. I'd also like to go down into it, which I didn't have time to do. Always leave something for the next time. That's pretty much my motto when I travel.
Better than I could have done:
Along with whatever meds you usually take (I do BP pills, a statin, and baby aspirin for good luck), I always carry a bottle of amoxicillin, a Z-pak, and about ten 10 mg Ambiens (Zolipidem). I break Ambiens in half as needed. 
I'll be heading out to Iceland this evening.