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Tuesday, October 31. 2023Some Thoughts on Travel and AuthenticityI was about 55 years old the first time I went to Disneyworld. I'd been to Florida and Orlando several times before, but never any of the theme parks. I'd been to Disneyland with my boys while I was in my late 30s. The comparison between California and Florida is stark. Not that Disneyland is bad, if you're into theme parks and Disney in particular. Orlando just offers so much more. I'm not writing about Disney, though. What I found really intriguing was, when I visited Disneyworld, I was surprised to see how well it has adapted through the years (Disneyland still has work to do to catch up). I realized, upon visiting Epcot, what Disney's original goal was. At a time when long distance travel was rare, and still a luxury, he sought to bring foreign lands and foreign experiences to the United States. As authentic an experience as possible, whether from abroad or from entertainment. Disney hired locals from the regions represented in Epcot, and they continue to do so. In fact, when I was in Britain I met a former pub owner who was one of the first Disney had brought over to run the "authentic" English pub in Epcot. My Italian dinner in Epcot was served by a native of Tuscany. OK, so Bulldog, you're still talking about Disney... Yes, well, knowing what Disney is/was about helps address part of the question of authenticity. There's nothing truly authentic about Epcot. You can't fault them for trying, and it's an admirable effort. It's not my style, though. The crowds and the imagery are like near beer, when you're looking for a craft beer IPA. Recently, Bird Dog had shared with me how his visit to Venice was like visiting Disney, and I can definitely see where that view comes from. I was there 7 years ago, and only spent 2 days in Venice. I'd say I got a relatively good feel for it and enjoyed my time. I don't entirely agree with his comparison. But something did click when he mentioned it. The final morning, as I was standing on a dock waiting for a vaporetto to take us to the airport, we saw our concierge. He was smoking a cigarette and shaking his head as a massive cruise ship was arriving. He looked at me and said "they are ruining this place." He chatted about how the cruisers come ashore, create crowds and won't be spending money. I understood. I'm not much of a cruise person (at least not the huge cruise ships). I tend to avoid them. After 2 days in Venice, I was familiar with the cruise crowd. It was that experience which allowed me to align with Bird Dog's view. The concierge realized Venice is selling out for the crowds. I brought up Disney because I'm not sure there's much "authenticity" anywhere we travel. Over time, even the original destinations tend to take on the look, feel and mannerisms which are widely believed to exist. Case in point - the "Druid" celebrations at Stonehenge. Stonehenge isn't Druid. It predates the Druids by centuries. Near Stonehenge was a pub where I met a former Disney manager. This was his pub, and now its 'theme' had shifted slightly. While still an 'authentic' pub from King John's era, with many interesting items to view, it had a satellite dish, TV and it catered to busloads of tourists. It was in a village, Lacock, which had strict rules about modern adaptations. Portions of the Harry Potter movies were filmed in Lacock because of its 'authenticity'. Despite this, anyone who has visited Lacock would be quick to note the level of 'authenticity' is dependent on what you're looking for. This isn't to say travel is worthless, so Disney and Epcot suffice. Original locations are almost always superior for learning and experiencing what life is or was about. However, it is worth mentioning that Jean Baudrillard wasn't far off in Simulacra and Simulation. We see the impact of influence, from a variety of sources, all over when we visit other nations. London remains my home away from home, yet it's nothing like the London I remember from 1979 or 1983, when I lived there. Every time I visit it's like returning to the home I grew up and and not recognizing it. Modern realities and sensibilities squeeze in. You have to cater to crowds if you want the coin. Disney catered to a particular audience, those who lack the time, money, or interest to actually see the world, but wanted a packaged version of it. It's nice to have that available. The rest of the world still has to package and brand itself, too. Which means, over time, portions of what people want to see gets mixed in with different versions of what reality has to offer. If Epcot's "Italy" is what they're willing to pay to see, Italy itself will find itself affected in some way. I imagine it's always been this way. Mass communication and the rapidity with which information travels have sped the process a bit. It's hard to have a true cowboy experience because that was a difficult and strenuous lifestyle. But a dude ranch can give you the next best thing to being there, I suppose. I enjoy reading history, particularly before I travel. My search for the 'authentic' is to bring myself closer to the history. I'll never forget wandering Rome and stumbling on the Largo di Torre Argentina, where Caesar was killed. We took pictures, wandered into an atrium nearby with some very interesting ancient sculptures on display, and what caught my eye was the plaque across the street stating this was the spot where the car containing Aldo Moro's body was found. I took a picture and stared at the location for a moment, while the rest of my family asked "Who was Aldo Moro?" Similarly, during a walking tour of the homes of literary giants in the Hampstead Heath area, we visited a church where Bram Stoker wrote portions of Dracula. I was more interested in the cemetery, where John Harrison (who solved the issue of longitude) and John Constable just happened to be buried. Sheer luck allowed me to find these, which were welcome side notes to the larger tour. Almost as engaging as seeing where Ian Fleming lived, and how he came up with the name for Goldfinger. I suppose authenticity lies in what we're searching for. Hampstead Heath is not remotely authentic to what I remember from Constable's paintings. Some degree of the 'authentic' remains. We all seek some level of it as we travel. Sometimes we'll be pleasantly surprised. Much like the old saying regarding luck - you have to be prepared for it when it crosses your path. However, each visitor sends a little bit more of it to the dustbin, so a new 'authenticity' evolves. Trackbacks
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I like the CA one but that was years ago before the Long March to burn down the world for Karl.
Getting kicked out of parks was always fun. Those safari hat clerks at King's Island made us leave and we snuck back in. The Beast was awesome! Universal Studios and Knott's Berry Farm were surprisingly fun and I still have some mini jelly jars. It was always a Potemkin delusion but now the smoke and mirrors have reached the end of the line? Went to Disneyworld ONCE, in conjunction with a technical conference. Stayed in a siloed-in Disneyworld motel with a 50's-60's rock-n-roll theme, where every song and photo was a cheap, copyright-free knock off. Most of the theme park attractions were surrounded by cheap-o souvenir shops, and travel in the park was tightly controlled by some bizarre shuttle scheduling. I was underwhelmed, and won't be returning. For the Disneyworld money, I can visit New York, Vancouver, or Montreal and see and purchase real stuff, and move about on my own. Suck it, Walt.
I toured Disneyland in 73 and Disneyworld in 75 and 77. I preferred the Matterhorn ride over all the rest as it was much less controlled.
As to authenticity, I just returned from two weeks in Italy--Rome, Umbria, Florence. Being of Benedictine heritage, we toured the Monasteries at MonteCassino and Subiaco. Same process as you describe over centuries. I am sure that St. Benedict is scandalized by the Roccoco church at MonteCassino, for instance. There is a cost to making a "site" available to the "public". The flip side, though, was that I got to see the "caves" where St. Benedict and St. Francis lived in contemplation. Despite all the accretions of the centuries, I was awed by their asceticism and dedication, so I am thankful that I went even if it was convenient to get to those once-remote sites. Thanks - yes, that's my view.
There's nothing "new" in the world, and catering to tourists is the main goal today, even for "Holy" sites. I just love experiencing the history. I stopped by Lake Trasimeno on my way out of Italy just to see the site of Hannibal's amazing trashing of the Roman legions with what was arguably the first turning movement in history. It's about a half mile up from the lake, now, as the lake has receded. The lake was critical to his success, however. Still, soaking in that history is invigorating and important. That's what I love about travel. Disney doesn't have that. Although I do like the rides. As a 61 year old native, going to, and living with Disneyworld my whole life, I can assure the original premise of the part envisaged by Walt is long dead.
When the park first opened only Mainstreet and Adventureland were accessible. When Epcot opened it was beautiful. You are correct, it brought the world to your doorstep. Food was awesome, many employees native of the homeland. It has become a den of degeneracy and wokeness. Want to go see same sex couples kissing and frockling? Know yourself out. There is also a concerted effort to "dewhite" the entire park. Maybe the new majority will keep them afloat, I don't know. Word on the street here by employees is attendance is way down. Who knows. There's a lot to unpack there. Not really. Ha.
I had a similar experience my first time there - it was a "Gay Day" of some nature and we were overwhelmed by the number of gay people. We had no idea. It wasn't uncomfortable, and frankly I didn't care. I felt bad for the families who all wore the same colored shirts to celebrate something - groups tend to do that in Disney. Sadly, many of them picked the same color that the gay crowd was wearing...ooops. Disney is suffering and I'm a huge supporter of "Go Woke, Go Broke" concepts. If you're going to use that Wokeness to drive your business culture - you deserve to struggle. And everyplace I've been where Woke is front and center is failing. Good. But business is fixable. That's how the market works. There are ways to improve and get back to basics. Promoting things like Woke ideologies has hurt Disney, no question - but Disney still has a lot to offer. IF they can get back to what made them great to begin with. We'll see. Been to both, Disneyland very long ago indeed, but it had a warmer feel to it, for me. Disney World, ugh. But I'll be going there again, if I live long enough, to spoil the grandkids.
On 'Authenticity', I think you've gone all around the bushes without putting your finger on it. Years ago I took a dirt road drive in East Texas after a very long night on a troublesome well, and found myself on a one lane, very old, concrete road. Middle of nowhere. I followed it and wound through river bottom land, crossing old iron truss bridges, one lane of concrete. I ended up in a place called 'Eureka'. There were dozens of the old standard derricks standing, some still with working pump jacks, some still with pipe racked back in the derricks. A few scattered houses, mostly empty. Kudzu growing everywhere. Eureka was one of the early Texas 'Black Gold' boomtowns, and these derricks were standing testament to the work of thousands, where hundreds of derricks once stood and thousands of wells were drilled. A picture from the height of the boom from the 1920s covered the wall in a Holiday Inn lobby Corsicana, a few miles away. The point is, history is always authentic, but the quest to discover it, to view it and try to understand its significance is usually lost on the beholder. You will find history everywhere around you - but what you make of it, is up to you. That's where the authenticity comes from. Eureka is long gone now, cleaned up and covered by a reservoir. Unless I'm wrong, this is what you're saying:
I suppose authenticity lies in what we're searching for. Which is what I finished with. I agree with your premise. History is always there for those who seek it. Not everyone is, though. What's authentic to me, with history, is a place to sit for others. I'm referring to a point in time where we were waiting to enter the Colosseum and my son sat on what used to be a column. I laughed and said "You're sitting on history." He didn't care. He just wanted to go see where gladiators fought. Which is just fine by me. We all get something out of it. Never been to Disney world.
Have been to Disneyland back in it's early days. I remember when they had just opened their French Quarter. It felt right. Seemed if one walked a few steps farther one could sit at a table in The Court Of the Two Sisters on a misty evening. You could feel you were there, in the Quarter, until took a sip of you jarringly California, not New Orleans chicory , coffee. Authentic? No,but the old boy knew how to remind you of such. Today's experience of a foreign (new to you) place is mostly about what you bring with you. If you have read a good review of the "official" history you will have a deeper (more attuned) experience of what you are seeing in the present.
If all you have done for this trip is pack a suitcase and get on a cheap flight, then you will have a fairly shallow experience of the history, and thus suffer the common "tourist" disappointment in place. I have been to Disneyland in CA about half a dozen times. Never been to Disney world. I didn't get there until we took my daughters in my thirties. The thing I liked about it was all the memories it triggered, things I remember from watching the Disney show on a B&W TV as a kid growing up in Wyoming, wishing I could be there. It had changed a lot since then, and still more now, but there was enough left that would trigger a pleasant memory when I walked around a corner, or rode a ride. Without those memories being triggered, it would have been just another hot, crowded, noisy, expensive amusement park.
As for Venice, my wife and I visited there this summer for a day as part of a cruise. It's rich having a local talk about how the tourists are "ruining" Venice. Venice is just an Italian grown up Disneyland. It is there for the tourists - there's no other reason to be there. All productive activities in the area are on the mainland or another island. Without tourists the place would sink beneath the waves. Having said that, we enjoyed our day there and were glad we went. Another check on the bucket list. A friend of mine recently planned a trip to Japan and asked me what to see, since I used to live there. Among other places, I recommended Kyoto.
Later he told me he decided not to go to Kyoto because everyone said it was too touristy. I told him it had been a major tourist destination for more than 400 years, so nothing could be more authentic. |