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Monday, September 16. 2013Doc's Computin' Tips: Computer audio to room speakers
The problem with the audio coming out of computers is that there simply isn't very much power, mainly because they're only designed for those little computer speakers. If you want to play a song or movie on the computer and have it sound decent, you need to use a couple of normal room speakers. The hitch there is that normal speakers need a lot more power to get moving than a computer can provide. So the answer is to use something like this:
That's an AudioSource AMP-100 Stereo Power Amplifier, $103 on Amazon. It's important to note when shopping for amplifiers that there are two different power ratings; RMS, the real amount of power, and 'peak power', the peak it can hit for a millisecond, which is basically worthless. If you search around Amazon for "speaker amplifier", you'll see a number of ads for a cheaper brand called 'Pyle', which cheats by advertising the peak power. Their "100-watt" unit is actually 10 watts of RMS power — which isn't much more than the computer has. So you have to be careful differentiating between the two. The AudioSource unit, above, is 100 watts RMS, or 50 watts a channel. The speakers, themselves, also make a difference. Some older 4'-high monsters might not be near as 'efficient' as a smaller, newer 'bookshelf' model, and are going to require more power to get them to a loud level without distortion. Along the same lines, how loud you plan on playing them enters the picture. For just your average speaker played at an average room level, 100 watts should be fine, but if you're planning on cranking them up, you'd better think in terms of 200 watts or higher. That'll also require much bigger bucks. In all honesty, I can't officially recommend any brand over another, simply because I haven't bought one of these in decades, but the above info should get you going if you want to search around, and don't forget the user reviews at the bottom of the page. And speaking of user reviews, there's an important point to be made if you're buying the above unit. Apparently, the 'Line 1' input has some kind of goofy feature that automatically mutes the volume if it doesn't sense any input, so use 'Line 2', which operates normally. The user reviews loved the unit but hated that feature, with a number of them bitching and moaning because they hadn't bothered to read the manual and thus didn't know that 'Line 2' doesn't use the feature. The one other piece of equipment you'll need is this rascal:
The stereo 'mini-pin' plug on the left goes into the 'Audio Out' jack on the back of the tower and the two 'RCA cup jacks' plug into the back of the amp. Hook the speakers up to the amp and you should be good to go. Update: Reader 'rhhardin' suggested a Radio Shack Ground Loop Isolator, so keep that in mind if you get any humming out of the speakers. It sometimes occurs when two power supplies are involved, in this case the computer and the amp. As for there being four speaker jacks, while you could probably play four smallish bookshelf speakers at a normal volume without distortion, I wouldn't plan on anything bigger. If you don't mind snipping off the jacks of your existing computer speakers, you could wire them into the 'Speaker A' slot and put the room speakers on 'B', then switch back and forth as needs be.
Posted by Dr. Mercury
in Dr. Mercury's Computer Corner, Our Essays
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Boy, there was some good timing. Wifey-poo and I were just last night talking about dumping the 'puter into the room speakers. I'd downloaded some rock documentary and the music coming out of the speakers was pitiful. The reviews of the above model sounded pretty good so I ordered it. Thanks!
The good news: You're welcome. Glad t'help.
The bad news: Now you'll have to spend the rest of the day trying to figure out why your comment inspired a whole new Computin' Tip. Hint: TiVo blew it. You also need an isolation transformer for the audio lines.
Otherwise you will most likely get a lot of harmonic-rich hum from a ground loop and switching power supplies. I use them all over between my many audio devices. Radio Shack 270-054 works great. Thanks for the tip. I'd forgotten about ground loops. Post has been updated with the Radio Shack part.
Total harmonic distortion is also a very critical spec, anything over .1% THD will have noticeable distortion, especially at higher volumes.
Many manufacturers don't publish this spec, because, of course, their amps make your music sound like a 60's transistor radio. Hi Doc:
Got to put up some game cameras (security?) on the place. Would you please do a piece on how they work with wireless and what type of computer equipment we will need? We want to be able to have three cameras and a split screen on the computer that will show any or all scenes at once. We also need to be able to preserve the footage so we can review at a later date. What do you suggest? Oh and btw we only use Apple in our house !! Thank you "Oh and btw we only use Apple in our house !!"
Apple...Apple...hold on a sec, it's ringing a bell. Say, isn't that the Radio Shack house brand? And a mighty fine piece of equipment it is. Saw one just the other day while picking up some batteries. As for your question, though, sorry, don't have a clue. Never done anything with video cameras. Type a whole bunch of keywords into Google and a bunch of sites should pop up. If you find a real winner, let me have the link and I'll slip it into a Computin'' Tip sometime. I run the computer into a small FM transmitter set to an unused frequency, and thence to any old FM radio indoors or outdoors.
Actually the computer goes into a couple of sound mixer boards along with other stuff, giving a lot more choice what goes into the FM radio. Among the outputs of the mixer board is one to the computer itself as input, so it can record anything playing anywhere, including its own output. Isolation transformers everywhere. We have a beautiful old Bang and Olefsun system. The trouble is too many commercials on the FM station and not enough classical!
Also, the system is too old for the new DVD player to hook into. We do have the turntable ! It would be great if we could hook the computer into the B&O speaker system and thus receive BBC Music Radio--any suggestions? Your BeoMaster or BeoCenter from Bang & Olufsen should have provision for connecting another sound source.
This will be in the form of a 5-pin "DIN" plug on the back, labelled as an aux auxiliary input or as a tape connection -- in both cases it is a single "DIN" jack, which to the rest of us (not accustomed to 80's european hi-fi gear) looks like one of those 5/8" diameter old-style IBM keyboard jacks. Radio Shack used to carry adapters to connect other stuff to these, but do not anymore. They are still available on the net or via phone ordering from some fine electronics emporia. If you let me know the model-number of your B&O, I can look up the manual and then direct you to what you might purchase and where you might buy it in order to get your computer sound connected. MCM electronics, for example, has 5-pin DIN to RCA "tape" adapters for less than $5. Thank you Douglas--will go look at the number and get back to you! We have had it packed away because there is no "sound" worth picking up from radio where we are.
Hmmm... been doing this for 9 years now for 59 dollars. Mac, with AirportExpress. Little mini plug adapter, 10 bucks, AirportExpress, 49 bucks. Mac sends the wireless signal to AiportExpress to my Kenwood stereo and/or to my Sony boom box on the patio, basement, front yard, wherever I want. I know you hate Macs, but cheap and easy is easy and great. Once hated brussel sprouts, but I found out... they're good! :) Have a cup of coffee and think about it, the real stuff, no instant!
"I know you hate Macs, but-"
I presume that's not directed at me. I owned a Mac for years, back when they blew the doors off a PC. I only kid them because of their low market share. Watching the neck hairs of a Mac user bristle when called a 'cultist' is simply too precious for words. :) Otherwise, for a wireless rig, that sounds like a good way to go. This post is mainly for people who don't already have a regular receiver to push the speakers. Haven't paid any attention to the field in years, but Kenwood used to make one of the best rigs around, had one for a while back in the early 70's. We also use Airport Express to tie the Mac WiFi into the receiver that serves both the music and the TV systems, which use the same wall-mounted speakers.
And don't be telling me you don't hate Macs. You cherish an ugly passion against my harmless Mac. I wish you could see its crestfallen face sometimes after I open one of your comment threads. At the risk of taking you seriously, I kid Macs because of their lowly market share, and I love dismantling that whole "Macs don't get viruses" meme, but one thing I've never mentioned is that they're not Apple "computers" anymore -- not since they switched to the same hardware that PCs use (that is, Intel chips instead of Motorola). It's really just Apple software these days, not the whole 'computer'. That's actually a pretty devastating insult, but I've never mentioned it in a post.
And if I actually "hated" Macs, I wouldn't post articles like this. You'll note that I continue the Mac-Virus meme, but the message is deadly serious. However, your heartbreaking image of the poor little guy's crestfallen face has made an impression, so I'll try to be a kinder, gentler Mac-hater in the future. If you speakers hum with a set up of this type, the problem may be a “ground loop” rather than the presence of two power supplies. Both the computer and the amplifier should “see” the same reference ground. This can be accomplished by a shared “star” pattern grounding of all of the electronics involved or, more simply, plugging all of the black boxes into the same receptacle. It would help the quality of the output if circuit feeding the electronics wasn’t also supplying a compressor (e.g. a refrigerator) or other electrically noisy device.
See, for example: (all “www”) aqdi(dot)com(f-slash)groundloop(dot)htm, epanorama(dot)net(f-slash)documents(f-slash)groundloop(f-slash)index(dot)html. and a host of others. Just so I have this right. You plug the single end of the y-splitter into the (usually) green output jack of the PC sound card. Then the white and red into the line in of the amplifier. Correct? I own a pair of Klipsch THX 2.1 computer speakers, purchased maybe ten years ago for ~$120. They play quite loud. Clean bass, also. Will the AMP-100 power a subwoofer? Does a sub require a separate jack? Thank you for this tip.
Read the comments section on Amazon and a commenter answered the subwoofer question: "It doesn't have a sub out": No, but it does have a line out/pass-through for input 2 which can be used for a sub out.
Yes on the y-splitter, and you answered the sub-woofer question. If you're using this for a pair of room speakers, why do you want a sub-woofer?
Thank you for the reply, Dr. Mercury. Yes, I'll give the subwoofer proposition more thought.
I only ask because most decent room speakers already go down to sub-woofer range, to a point below inaudible. If deep bass is your thing, it'd make more sense to buy an equalizer and just kick up the lowest settings.
An option I use for my office, not a huge space is to run the audio out to a powered subwoofer that the satellite speakers also connect to. No need for a separate amplifier in this set-up and the satellite speakers can remain small since the sub is taking care of the low frequencies.
Good stuff Doc....I used two of those Y-splitter cables. One to connect the cpu to an old stero receiver and another splitter {this one had a fem plug} to connect the old computer speakers to the receiver. Even those dinky old speakers have a good sound and volume. Thanks for the idea.
Just discovered this order thread so maybe this will go unseen. The gist of this piece is correct, but it - and one comment - contain a few incorrect assertions:
1. Smaller speakers are less, and not more efficient. Check the specs. The larger the speaker is the more driven surface area it has, and hence the more efficiently it couples with air, a very light medium you ideally need a lot of area to really couple well with. 2. Power is almost always over overbought, over-specified, and under-qualified. You need nowhere near a hundred true watts to run desktop speakers, for gosh sake, because one clean watt will run any competent speaker you can actually fit on your desk to a deafening 85 Decibels. Sound cards are indeed inadequate, but considering the finest sounding amplifiers in the world are maybe a few watts, twenty for your desktop amplifier is plenty. 3. Along with wattage figures, THD numbers are perhaps the other most useless specification in audio. Those few watt ultra-fi amplifiers I mentioned? Probably churn out as many percent THD at maximum output. What sounds like hell is the type of distortion - like Transient Intermodulation Distortion (TIM) and similar - and the harmonic spectrum of distortion, and not necessarily that THD number. Here's a tip: If you're looking for a very good sounding small amplifier to run your desktop monitors, search an "LM3886" amplifier on Ebay and plunk down your hundred or so bucks. The Chinese makers have perfected popping two of this very low distortion and very good sounding "monolithic" IC amplifier chip into a case, adding a power supply, and connecting them to the outside world. Major American silicon manufacturers did audio a huge service in putting an entire amplifier output stage on a die and letting the amplifier brand just give it a power supply and a nice expensive case. That AudioSource might have a couple in it... |