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Tuesday, January 6. 2026Winter tips: More on pine and fir as firewood
I always like to have a fire when it's cold and snowy, but Warmists disagree. Pine, spruce, hemlock, and fir make excellent firewood. With their pitch content, they may burn hotter and quicker than hardwoods, but they produce plenty of good heat and light. They produce no more chimney creosote than anything else, and probably less. Firs and pines are most of what they burn out West. While everybody needs to have a well-used chimney cleaned regularly, creosote accumulates in a chimney mainly from wood with high water content. In other words, "green wood" which has not had 6-12 months to shed its water content by sitting outdoors, or has not been "kiln-dried" like the expensive stuff in stores. Green pine wood is no more problematic than green maple, according to the experts. Ideally, give all wood some time to dry out to minimize creosote build-up. A second cause of creosote build-up (we are not talking about ash build-up in the chimney, just the greasy creosote) is probably smoldering fires. The hotter the fire, the less likely that creosote will find time to condense and attach somewhere in your chimney. Creosote is, to some extent, water-soluble and thus condenses as it moves up to the cooler parts of the upper chimney. The problem with creosote is chimney fires. Readers know that I've had a few, and it is not fun. If you are far from a fire station, it can burn your house down by either sparking the roof or penetrating the flue. People like me who burn wood indiscriminately - any wood from any tree, green or aged - must deal with the creosote issue with creosote fighters. Chimney sweeps cannot remove the grease, but chemicals can. I also enjoy quiety smoldering fires rather than dramatic blazes, so I do everything wrong. Details on the firewood topic here. Details on creosote oils here. Some creosote oils are what preserves and gives flavor to smoked meats. I remember painting fence posts with creosote as a lad, with my Dad. I don't think people do that anymore but it is a good and cheap wood preservative. Here's a good piece on dangerous creosote and wood stoves.
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Wood heat is our only heat. I'm sitting comfortably in front of the stove right now. We allow it to burn down before bed, I don't like sleeping with a fire going. Makes for a cold morning but once the fire is going in the stove the radiant heat makes you feel warmer then the 40 degree thermometer reading makes you think it is. I also live in a pine forest. It has a variety of trees but they are still all pine. I have about 10 cords of wood and all of it free from my own property or my nieghbors. My flue does not need frequent cleaning until after the outside temp drops below freezing. The problem is mostly the cold creates more condensation before the smoke can leave the flue. Luckily I live in a cabin with a slightly pitched roof so winter or summer it is easy to go up on the roof and take a bursh to the flue. It takes one pass of the brush to clear the flue and about 2 minites to clean up the chimney cap. The downside is the low pitch angle allows the snow to stay on the roof and at about 5' of snow I have to shovel. It takes the two of us about three days (not 8 hour days of course) to shovel the roof when it's that deep. So far in 13 years I have only shoveled the roof twice. Often we get more then enough snow to require shoveling but we also get a lot of sun and unless it is particularly bad weather we get some melting on those sunny days. I dread the roof shoveling. It's not bad once you begin, it's invigorating and an excuse to be out in the weather. But the problem is it's 3 days of work with no other option.
I remember the smell of creosote from 60 years ago passing through Monroe, LA on family trips. There were open ponds of the stuff with logs soaking in it to become poles for power companies. It took a while for the sinuses and eyes to stop watering when you got a face full of the fumes. Creosote was deemed too toxic for the environment. They went to an arsenic-based treatment till it too was declared toxic. The currently used wood preservative is supposedly safer. I've cut creosoted poles before and the sawdust on your skin will give you a nasty chemical burn - don't want to do that again.
p.s. Chimney guys were here this morning. I'm betting against the Mayan December 21st end-of-the-world and going with an extra cord of seasoned oak. Yep. Creosote is a condensate. Keep the chimney temps high enough and the condensation is minimized. Burn on, Bro. As long as the wood is dry, not a problem.
A multi-decade wood burner here as well as a retired forester. I too used to paint the railroad ties we used for some walls with creosote to preserve them with my dad. You never forget that smell.
re Chimney sweeps cannot remove the grease, but chemicals can.
Odd. One would think chimney sweeps would apply the chemical as a service? No? They can't. The chemicals have to be applied to a hot-burning fire.
I'm reminded of that smell. Thanks.
Long back, I helped my brother build a log cabin on some mountain property. We harvested the logs off the property, etc. I painted the foundation posts with creosote. I remember it wasn't terrible. Oh those old times. I do remember later in the truck the sun hitting where I'd gotten some on my arms was intense. No chemical burns but I did clean up again. I can't remember for sure but probably with gasoline. Leaded, of course. In the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, we burn oak as well as pine for heat. Fact is I have oak trees on the property. Not all of us are at a particularly high elevation.
I heat a 2200 sq ft house with a wood burning fireplace insert during the winter. Beat heat ever. "Firs and pines are all they burn out West/"
Here in the San Francisco Bay Area, almond is the preferred and most common fire wood. The Central Valley is a huge grower of almonds and the need to prune and replace almond trees make for a great supply of almond wood. My carriage house/ shop in VT was heated by a large wood burner, the creosote build up was contained in a 2' X 4' L shaped flue
before it reached the actual chimney. The build up was due to a slow 12 hour burn over night. Replaced the piping every year and never had a chimney fire, yearly inspection of the chimney showed it stayed clean. We have an old cabin, built in 1960 by a local hand. The chimey is just built out of regular concrete block, there is no clean out in the bottom. The place was abandoned for thirty years and now we are starting to clean it up. I know that some garbage has been stuffed down that chimney. What should we do with that chimney? My thought is to cut it out at floor level and remove it completely--cleaning out the remaining base below the floor. We have to repair the roof anyway, we could just fix the roof as if there had never been a chimney. Then when we are building a new roof we could install a new fireplace at the other end of the room. I am trying to think of the cleanest and safest way to manage that old chimney. Any suggestions will be much appreciated!
My wife and I are political and economic refugees from the Soviet Socialist State of Minnesota. While we were there all of our firewood was cut from trimmings of oak and maple. Beautiful stull, but hard to split and it took up to two years to properly dry in that vast swampy state.
Here in NW Wyoming there are NO hardwoods available. Darned few deciduous trees even, with cottonwood on the river bottoms and aspen up mixed with the pines in the mountains. Most people around here prefer nice big logs of Douglas Fir, cut to length and split then air-dryed for a while. What's really funny about living here in a high-desert with close to zero precipitation (much more water in our snow than any rain we rarely get) is how FAST things dry out. Dishes in the drying rack, towels hung up in the shower. In MN you had to worry about towels getting moldy in humid weather, here they're dry in an hour. Cutting live pine when trimming them results in some nice straight-grained wood that's just oozing sap. What I've found works well is to cut it, let it dry in a rack for about 3 months and when it starts to check and split on its own go ahead and split it so it continues to dry better. After another 3 months it's bone-dry and ready to burn. Our wood stove has an uninsulated chimney inside the house and an insulated one outside the house. We get nice heat from the portion inside, but the insulated outside keeps the chimney temperature up. We've got a magnetic thermometer on the chimney that helps us keep it outside the range of creosote formation, and our stove has a nice thermostatic (mechanical) damper system that holds the chamber temperature pretty well unless you over-feed the fire. |