Foggy drizzly Atlantic morning beach hike, Newcomb Hollow to Cahoon's Hollow, and back. Big shorebird migration last week. Hundreds of Least Sandpipers and Bonaparte's Gulls. Lots of Grey Seals people-watching. Great Whites seal-watching, I guess, too.
Besides multi-generational family tradition and the regular presence of my very high-energy sibs and their interesting kids (I went for an early morning jog - 5:30 or so, and ran past the town tennis courts. "Hey, Bird Dog - I have a spare racquet in my car". My brother and sis were playing tennis already, so we did Canadian doubles for an hour), I'll offer some reasons we love it there, and a few pictures, below the fold:
- There is no crime and people look good and are friendly.
- The summer folk tend to be sophisticated but not like lots of rich people in Nantucket. Very low-key. The guy in the faded t-shirt and bathing suit in front of you in the line at the Market could be the assistant conductor of the Boston Symphony, a world-renowned architect or artist, a carpenter from Pittsfield, or a deck hand on a fishing boat. Small "d" democratic. Well, I have to say that there is a lefty vibe from many of the visitors but it doesn't matter. I can COEXIST but you can leave your MAGA cap at home.
- Most of the town can not be built on. It's National Seashore, completely protected from development. Dunes, piney woods, and marshes.
- This year, we stayed at this 1736 inn because we had no kids with us - all too busy building careers, That's what happens...
- The 19th C archtecture, farmers and fishers and sea captains, is delightful.
- The gardens are wonderful. Local vegetables and flower borders. Long growing season because it's 50 miles out in the ocean
- There are now about 8 excellent seafood joints, all informal and fun, kid friendly, many with live music. None expensive. Mac's:
- There is a cozy little village with people around all the time
- There is music and theater every night. The Borromeo Quartet was at the Congregational Church Sat nite, and Henry V was performed every night in the park. Not to mention the square dancing on the pier. Excellent bands always, at Pearl. I love the Beachcomber too, but it's getting ready to fall into the ocean. The Cape is a temporary pleasure, geologically-speaking.
- We have around 50 art galleries to wander around on rainy afternoons. On Sat. nites, they stay open until 9 with cheeses and wine. Fun. If you go back yearly, they know you. Get to meet the artists too
- The wildlife, especially for birders, is remarkable in all seasons, and in migration season you can see everything. Wonderful salt marshes. Low tide in a salt marsh:
- Water fun. Within just a few miles, we have "ponds" aka lakes, chilly ocean surf on one of the world's finest ocean beaches, warm harbor water, and Cape Cod Bay. For July and Aug water fun including boating, you are ruled by the tides. 9-12 foot tidal changes. Ocean fun at low tide, harbor and bay at higher tides, and the ponds anytime. No crowds ever, because you need a beach pass.
- The Wellfleet Oyster. Sweetest oyster in the world. And Wellfleet still has a small fishing fleet, so your fish supper can be Boat To Table. Try the Cod. Actually, one day I had the day-fresh Toro Sushi. Like butter. Toro is the fat-filled tuna belly meat.
- Weather: Atlantic fog and drizzle or clear blue summer heat, it doesn't matter. You do your day plan anyway. Yankees don't fuss about weather anyway. It's always cool at night and in the morning. Excellent morning running or biking weather. No need for a/c. Sea breezes most of the time, so few bugs. Well, some sand fleas sometimes. Sit on the ocean beach in drizzle? Why not?
Our stuff at Power's Landing:
Great Pond:
Duck Harbor, on Cape Cod Bay
-Yes, there is yoga daily, including beach yoga
- Like fishing? Stripers, Blues, and Tuna are out there
Off-season? It's rather bleak and lonely. The bar at The Lighthouse is open year-round though, and there is good pheasant, turkey, and duck hunting. There is really no snow because while the ocean is cooling in summer, it is moderating in winter
- Churches? Plenty of them. The old Congo church dominates the village. Rings ship's bells because it always did since 1840.
- Sailing and boating? Cape Cod Bay can't be beat. Our harbor's tides, though, mean you have to time your outings. At low, no boats can get in or out. Seamanship required. I have a bit of that, love to mess with boats, sail or power, especially in gnarly weather. Challenge
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