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Tuesday, May 19. 2015

Oil and wax, again, with other goop

For finish coats on refinished or freshly done wood, Sippican recommends this stuff. It's what he used as a finish for his furniture: Deft clear finish.


I always listen to him. As an old-timey Yankee traditionalist, I figgered he'd go for for waxes or oils which I prefer on my gunstocks, but he likes a couple of coats of that Deft stuff, sprayed or brushed. I will not use polyurethane on furniture as my religion forbids it but that's not polyurethane. It's a lacquer.


I am still contemplating how to finish one of our old oak rustic, wide-board family dining tables which I sanded, steel-wooled, and stained. Why do that? Drink and other stains, and 90 years of grime, food, wax, dust, and dead mouse excretions. And rustic enough that I could not screw it up badly. Would never dare touch fine furniture. Maybe I'll use the Dreft Deft.


No rush. We have tables! Just no time to siddown.





Posted by Bird Dog in The Culture, "Culture," Pop Culture and Recreation at 16:47 | Comments (8) | Trackbacks (0)

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Sorry to report The Deft product seems to be a urethane product...

http://buyat.ppg.com/rep_pafpainttools_files/pghpaints/tdb/DFT257.pdf
#1 dorf on 2015-05-19 18:33 (Reply)
But then maybe not....

http://www.rockler.com/deft-waterborne-clear-wood-finish
#2 dorf on 2015-05-19 18:35 (Reply)
Look into Watco Oil. It's held up through family meals, arts and crafts that went astray from plastic protectors, and game playing. You just need to reapply it every couple of years and wipe it down.
#3 jma on 2015-05-19 19:07 (Reply)
Regardless of which product you use, you are essentially using a "Clear Coat". While I prefer oil finishes over the others, there should be no doubt that a poly finish is tough and durable. Even in the 80's, there were (and still are) water based polys which are tougher than any other finish I am familiar with.
#4 I.......... on 2015-05-19 20:49 (Reply)
If you have a dark water/ink stain on an antique wood piece, you can generally remove it by mixing a paste out of Zud cleanser and leaving it on the stain overnight. Zud has an ingredient (Oxalic Acid) that does this. Other cleansers do not have this ingredient. I prefer Tung oil or Watco Oil finish on antiques as it is not overly glossy. I do take care to avoid doing things that might damage the finish on furniture.
#5 Jerry on 2015-05-20 10:24 (Reply)
I'll give lip service to plain ol Tung oil:
http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/finishes/
#6 Dave J on 2015-05-20 10:26 (Reply)
Probably not what you're looking for but I rather like the toughness of Ceramithane
#7 BlogDog on 2015-05-20 16:59 (Reply)
Well, I am a traditionalist, too (and from New England). I work in a retail shop where we sell many tables. I prefer satin Varathane floor (yes, floor) varnish for it's durability and moisture resistance e.g. sweating glasses. I finish it with a coat of Oz cream polish - see Amazon; and Oz is great for antiques! Never had one complaint.
#8 Sean on 2015-05-20 21:49 (Reply)

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