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Tuesday, February 14. 2023Cassoulet
Cassoulet As you may know, cassoulet is basically French baked beans with meat. The real original of hot dogs and baked beans. It is country home cookin, but it can be great stuff. Dutch oven cooking. Crock pot? Why not, as long as the meats are browned first, but it will not brown the top. It's a good way to cook some wild game meat, especially the less-tender parts. Any meat, but not beef - strong red meat is too strong for cassoulet. We have, over time, used various mixes of duck, snow goose, chukar, venison, chicken, pork, wild boar, and pheasant which we have killed. Mix the meats - it adds to the flavor. There should be some source of pig fat or duck fat in it. Some venison sausage, or any sausage, because it is a necessary traditional ingredient. The meat-to-bean ratio is supposed to be fairly high - 30% - but I like beans and prefer a lower ratio. I think every village in southern France has its own recipe and method. I figure roughly one hunk of sausage and one hunk of meat per person. A few tips about Cassoulet: 1. Make it at least the day before. Like beef stew, it improves overnight. It's worth reading a few approaches to get the general idea. Here's an easy American version. Here's one French version. Here's another. Comments
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Think I'll try the crockpot version, may have to break out the automatic cover fanners though.
Don't ever, ever use canned beans. Yukky mush. Be sure to get them dried but as fresh as possible. If you don't grow them yourself, better to get them from some high volume supermarker where they move off the shelves quickly so they will cook up in less than two hours. The best beans are Jacob's Cattle (yes, a Biblical reference) which are beautiful speckled red and cream heirloom beans easily obtainable in the mega supermarkets in New Hampshire. Cook them until partially done, then bake them a long time in a regular oven.
Crockpots are convenient if, like me, you want to spend the entire day outdoors and come home to a yummy hot meal. But they basically steam everything. Baking in a traditional oven accentuates flavor, and doesn't destroy texture. Crockpots, for example, tend to make meat stringy albeit tender. For my money, the best beans are still my ancestral Boston baked beans, cooked in the traditional earthenware pot with lots of salt pork, molasses, mustard, and (horrors, untraditional) a dash of ketchup. Eaten with steamed brown bread cooked on the stove, dense and sweet. Enough to cheer you if you come back empty handed from the hunt. Well, here's a well-out-of time comment, but reasonable to me in that I just finished up the last of a mixed game cassoulet.
Personally, I don't find venison any more strong than duck or goose, so it goes in the pot. Elk, on the other hand, is usually too mild to really contribute much. Per Harold McGee, cooking beans in wine (or other alcohol) causes their skins to toughen, helping to keep your cassoulet from becoming mush. Last, don't forget some carrots! I had an idea a long time ago. Some company should make duck flavor, and goose flavor, and bear flavor, and even truffle flavor.
That way, you could make chicken taste like anything. And the kids wouldn't mind having giraffe once in a while. Carrots! Who in the world ever heard of such a thing! I do like the American recipe as a foundation, but then I return to the French version and throw in some other things (mmm--can't remember what they are right now--could it be lamb?) I'll have to go check. Co-incidentally this is my b'day weekend and you can bet we've got a great little bistro in town who specializes in this great dish. Can't afford dinner-but do get a good b'day meal at lunch time!
Happy B-day weekend to you AP. May you have many more!
Kick the bucket, and go out and have a 10 course dinner. : ) Dear R: Thank you for the insights on oven vs. crockpot.
As for carrots in cassoulet--well, after giving it some thought--perhaps it is not such a bad idea after all! I dunno about the Cote Rotie or Cotes du Rhone. The Chileans, the Aussies, the Argentinians even the Californians now give much better value for money.
Wifey just made me two large Quebecois game tourtierres and I ate half of one with sweet pickled onions and a bottle of Don Rodolfo malbec. I don't have a stove or an oven. I guess I am out of luck.
Bah - it's not French.
This is a Jewish dish - made up on Friday to be eaten on the Sabbath (no cooking allowed on the Sabbath itself). And yes, we use beef. European Jews call it cholent. Sephardic Jews call it hamin. Brisket or stew meat Chicken parts Spicy sausage (we use Morrocan-style lamb sausage) Whole eggs in their shells (scrub the shells) White/red beans Garbanzos (AKA chick peas) whole wheat / barley Onions and garlic Water to cover My wife also adds a serving spoon of tomato paste and some brown sugar. North African recipes as date or tamarind paste. This is a Jewish dish - made up on Friday to be eaten on the Sabbath (no cooking allowed on the Sabbath itself).
Certainly cassoulet is tasty. I grew up on another beanpot -Boston baked beans with brown bread, which Retriever also mentions. Boston baked beans also were cooked before the Sabbath and eaten on the Sabbath day. As the Puritans made many comparisons to themselves and the Israelites, I wonder if they got the custom of not cooking during the Sabbath from their copious readings of the Old Testament. Nearly everywhere we went in France we were served le vrais cassoulet. They are all different, so I guess mine is a vrais as any of them. I do it two ways: One is, for New Year's Day, I put the Thanksgiving turkey, frozen after we'd gotten tired of turkey cupcakes and whatever, plus the remnants of the Christmas ham, in a pot with the dried peas over night. Then I pull out the bones and bake everything with the herbs and spices according to Julia Child. It is always well received.
The other I developed when my wife was very ill for several years. I pressure-can Great Northern beans with fajita- seasoned chicken thighs, onions, and Polish sausage, and the herbs and spices, in quart canning jars, ten pounds pressure for eighty five minutes. There always seems to be one jar that did not seal, which we eat that day, and put the rest up for quick home cooked suppers. I get a baguette on the way home, and bake the contents of a jar for about a half hour while I am unloading the dishwasher, setting the table, making the salad. It's much cheaper than fast food, and, of course, infinitely better. I still do it, even though my wife has now recovered. There was an article in the Wall Street Journal just a year or so ago about the various regions in France and their squabbles over who could claim the title of being the "true" keepers of the cassoulet tradition. Those in Aquitaine and Poitou do not consider the Toulouse version to be accurate because of the addition of tomatoes. Hmm who knows. Who really cares? It's like every region in Italy claiming to make the authentic red sauce.
I made a huge batch about a month ago using an amalgam of recipes and it was pretty darn good. I was concerned at first by the extra volume of liquid during baking, making it look more like a thick soup than a casserole. But my DH enthusiastically gave it a thumbs up as it meant using good chunks of fresh bread to sop it up. And it got better and better the more times we heated it. It's so nice to put it in the oven, go out for a run, then come home to dinner in a flash. We opened a plain Beaujolais (not nouveau). Perfect match. Oh, and did I mention the inclusion of a healthy dollop of duck fat to get the whole process rolling? Won't ever leave it out again! Hear, hear! for the duck fat. I keep a jar of the stuff (skimmed from braised ducks) right next to my jar of bacon grease. My cassoulet may use dark chicken meat, but it tastes like duck!
Bah, not to mention Tchah! and Pfah!
It's not Jewish or French, it's a German Bohnen Eintopf. Several posts lately about stinky, gooey cheeses. Details please. I have just finished a small package of German Hartzer Bauern Hausgemacht Handkaese. Not quite ripe, and only starting to stink, but not bad. Who are the Kings of Stink, cheese wise? I think the Dutch, but I'd value your opinion. I can see I'm getting on in years - the first time I heard about the cassoulet was here on this site, probably with the original post in 2005. It began my French food adventures and I have wowed many a guest with my own version of this nourriture traditionnelle.
In the early Nineties, one of the menus in the French Army field ration packs (they were actually long cardboard boxes)included a tin of cassoulet.
Whenever working with the French in the Balkans, I always tried to get my hands on those ones! |
It's the end of hunting season, and I have not killed enough stuff this year. I have two does in the freezer, countless pheasants and chukars, a few Canada Geese and a bunch of ducks of several species. A couple of grouse, but we have eaten most of them
Tracked: Feb 03, 20:53